Tres Gatos, meow!

Sometime last spring, Rhythm + Muse started a clearance sale. Big signs and bookshelves of discounted books lining the sidewalk announced the liquidation. The sleepy little book and record store, nestled into the first floor of a multifamily home, looked like a cute little place to visit. Even though I walked passed it on a million dog-walks, the sale was the first inspiration to actually go inside (in part because I am a graduate student, and book stores only entice me to spend money and add stuff to my transitory life when the library is always free). My first thought was dismay as another cute, local, family-owned business goes down the tubes.

But then the rumors started (a wine bar?)...and shortly after a sign appeared as construction began. The sign thanked us for our patience and support as Rhythm + Must transformed itself into Tres Gatos, a neighborhood wine bar and tapas joint promising to significantly increase the coolness and tastiness of my little corner of JP.

I watched the construction with interest throughout the summer, noting small changes each day on my walk to work. Weeks dragged into months and I thought I would have to wait years for the final product. Fortunately, a few weeks back I noticed tall tables in the front windows, all set and ready for dinner service. Finally!

It was a rainy Monday night, and there seemed no better way to celebrate Spring Break than by splurging on tapas and wine. Raincoats and umbrella at the ready, we walked the few blocks to Tres Gatos. Talk about a makeover! The front room, with velvety mocha painted walls, housed a few tables in the bay window, an open bar space and a few small tables in the back. There was a view of the white-tiled kitchen and a peek through to the bright red party room with a large table and a smattering of white doilies painted on the wall. So far, so beautiful! The walk continued to the back of the house which contained updated remnants of the old book store: a special collection of records, books and cds. Talk about all the best things in one place. After perusing the paperbacks and vinyl, we escorted ourselves back to the dining room to find the place a bit more full and a bit louder. A very friendly man, who I assume was the proprietor, handed us menus and gave some explanation. And then the fun began.

The wine list featured only Spanish wines. I am not a wine connoisseur, and I was a bit overwhelmed by the long names that I didn't recognize, along with the prices. I ordered the 2009 Ladera Segrada "Castelo do Papa" because it was the least expensive at $8 a glass. At least I can admit to that. My fine dining companion ordered the Southern Tier 2X IPA on tap, which in the end was a finer selection than the wine list, and I can also admit my envy.

With drinks decided, we perused the menu. Instantly we knew we would have to balance our huge appetites, the delicious option (cod, mussels, pork belly, french fries oh my!) with our grad student checkbooks. Through an arduous selection process, we narrowed in on the olives and Spanish style pickles (pinchos), the fiddlehead tomme raw cow cheese (queso) and the Albóndigas and Creamy Brandade from the Tapas menu.

The waitstaff was friendly, and usually stood two deep when serving our table. As a new joint, they looked to be still training staff and getting their rhythm, however they were off to a good start. The staff whisked through the dining room, seating and serving guests as the dimly lit room became quite full and loud.

It might have been possible that our food arrived at the table before we were finished ordering, or at least that is how it seemed. Quite hungry after our walk, book browsing and dish deciding this was a good thing. First to arrive, a mini cast iron skillet embracing a batch of small Moroccan lamb meatballs, the Albóndigas. These little gems, so juicy they could hardly hold their shape without melting, were my gold star of the evening. Bright spices, a soft texture and a sauce I wanted to lick out of the cast iron dish almost enticed me to order a second plate. Soon after the first bite of Albóndigas our small table was awkwardly piled with olive, pickled vegetables and the cheese plate. Organization was required to keep everything within reach and elbows and sleeves out of harms way.

The olives, swimming in a blend of their own oil, peppercorns and garlic, were tasty but by no means special.  As a pickled vegetable fanatic, I was eager to fork the dainty plate of carrots, turnips, and pearl onions, but was quickly disappointed. The vinegar taste was mild, more like a sherry vinegar dressing than a long, slow, piquant mingling between vegetable and tangy acids. This, however, did not stop me from eating them all. The tomme looked promising, with toasted bread crackers and a dollop of fig preserve, this we saved for dessert.

I never heard of a brandade before, and felt unsure about this cod fish selection until it landed on our table. I knew we were in for something delicious when I first made eyes with the generously sized cast iron terrine full of a hot, creamy, salted cod spread and the toasted slices of thick "grilled country toast". Turns out brandade is a traditional Spanish emulsion of salt cod and olive oil, with a consistency similar to warm hummus, and is absolutely delicious. Perfectly creamy, barely fishy, satisfying like the best comfort food and harboring undertones of butter and parsley - this was a perfect treat that seemed to never end.

After Nikki daintily emptied the terrine and licked her fingers clean and the plates were cleared, we focused all attention on the triangle slice of Fiddlehead Tomme in front of us. Described as aged and grassy, the dry cheese split the table. I found the flavor too subtle to make an impact on my tongue while Nikki enjoy its grassy smoothness and the exceptionally delicious pairing with her IPA. Oh well, you can't win them all.

Bellies almost-full, and with no interest in the pear tart or the churros & chocolate desserts, we asked for the check. The din in the dining room had grown quite loud, but a full house made me optimistic about the success of this new little neighborhood joint. After the meal, we browsed the record section once again, and found some good treats to bring home in leui of a doggie bag. Overall, there were some tasty little dishes at this inspired new restaurant and I'll probably come back to savor more flavors when the checkbook allows!